The Cab Ride
The cab ride back from Nishiki Market to Kyoto Station was pretty quick. However, it was very hot and stuffy in the back seat. I immediately began sweating like crazy as we sped through the back alley streets. My driver didn’t seem to have any interest in using the air conditioning either-at least not in a way that emitted any cold air. So, to make the best of the situation, I used my hand fan to cool off and listened along to the classical music coming from the radio.
We sped passed the curiously named “Tits Cafe” before emerging out onto Karasuma Dori. Then made a left turn and headed south, towards Kyoto Station. I decided to have the driver stop early and let me out in front of the Yodobashi Camera store, a block north of the station. It was new since the last time I had been in Kyoto. I wasn’t really any different from any other Yodobashi Camera, but still, why not have a look, right?
I did a fairly quick walk through of the floors of the giant Yodobashi, ending my tour in the basement. Then it was out the connecting tunnel that leads into the underground Porta shopping area. I saw my beloved KYK Tonkatsu restaurant and bid it farewell until the next time. Then up the escalator and I was back outside standing in front of Kyoto Station in the rain.
The time was now about 4pm and my train was departing at 4:56pm. I decided to spend a few minutes in the large station entrance, having one last look around. It’s such a huge complex, the main open area feels like some sort of modern cathedral.
The wind was blowing pretty hard along with the rain. The typhoon was starting to get close.
After my look around, I stopped at the Anderson Bakery, located in the Isetan department store basement, to get a few baked goods for the train. I had a brief chat with the bakery cashier. She was curious as to what I had been out photographing- the giant camera of course being the give-away. I told her about my project and where I had been, the usual answer. Her curiosity was appreciated and I was glad she didn’t comment on the ridiculous amount of baked goods I was buying. I mean honestly, it was probably enough for 4 people. The main thing I bought was this amazing roll. Its a coiled kind of thing, with a buttery flavor and a glaze on top. It’s an amazing mix of buttery and sweet, but not too sweet. Just perfect.
(I wonder how many of those rolls I ate while in Kyoto? Since I bought at least one of those each time I visited the bakery. This last time, I bought two of those along with a couple other things. Strangely, I never took a picture of one. Oh well).
So with food in hand, it was back to the Hotel Granvia to get my bags. And with a pleasant goodbye from the bellhop at the back entrance, I was on my way to the Shinkansen platforms.
The Shinkansen to the Hotel
The walk down to the platform was quick enough. First past a group of people blocking the JR ticket gate, then up the escalator to the train platform. Then, I lined up behind five other people to board car 12 of the Hikari Super Express, train 480. It was now about 4:50pm.
The great thing about the Shinkansen is that it’s always on time, set your watch by them on time. So what happened next made for some excitement for an otherwise normal activity- the train was late! And in all my times in Japan riding the Shinkansen, it had never happened to me.
Our departure time came and went with no train and at first, everyone seemed not to notice. But after about two minutes, people began to get fidgety, checking their watches, looking around to see if anyone knew where the train was. The businessman in front of me escorting some people from Germany seemed embarrassed or something by the situation. At the very least he was uncomfortable with the what was going on. He stopped one of the platform attendants to ask and was told that the train was just delayed leaving Shin-Osaka.
In the end, our train was only 5 minutes late. And when it finally arrived, everyone boarded quickly (and calmly). In fact, the train was on it’s way, out of Kyoto Station before everyone was even seated. I guess they wanted to make up the time and get back on schedule. Throughout the ride to Tokyo, it did feel like the train was traveling just a bit faster than normal.
I settled into my seat at the front end of the cabin, with the wall in front of me. I had requested this seat so that I could use the power outlet with my laptop. As the train sped away from Kyoto, it hit me how sad I was to be leaving this beautiful city. As crowded and busy as Kyoto may seem, it feels like a very small city it is. Where it’s easy to be alone and feel like you aren’t crowded in. A modern metropolis for sure, but not at all like Tokyo or Osaka, it’s a treasure indeed.
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The Shinkansen ride itself was uneventful. We hit all the stops on time after Kyoto I think (at least we got into Tokyo right on time). I very much enjoyed my baked goods, spreading their consumption out over the full length of the journey. Once the sun set, I pulled out the laptop and did some photo sorting and a little writing. It was amazing how fast the train ride flew by. Before I knew it, we were closing in on Tokyo.
I love how the Shinkansen slows down as it gets into the Tokyo city limits. It feels like its just creeping along to it’s final stop at Tokyo Station. After arriving at Tokyo Station, I made my down from the Shinkansen platforms and over to find the local JR line trains. I needed to catch the Chuo Line (rapid service) that would take me across the heart of Tokyo to Shinjuku, where my hotel was. For some nice reason, the station wasn’t too crazy which made dragging my suitcase through it so much easier.
A great ad in Tokyo Station. Who knew chicken flavored instant ramen was so cute?
The trip on the Chuo Line took no time at all from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku Station. I was staying at the Keio Plaza in the area known as Nishi-Shinjuku (the skyscraper district) and the distance from Shinjuku Station to my hotel wasn’t actually that far so I decided to forgo a cab ride and walk to my hotel. The only downside to this plan was that it was very humid and when I got to my hotel, I was nice and hot and sweaty.
Checking in was fast, and I was up in my room pretty quick, it was a business level room on the 28th floor (I got an awesome deal on Expedia.com) with a nice view of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. I took a few minutes to get situated and then headed back outside to do some wandering around. I was tired, and it was already 9:30pm but I was hungry and decided that ramen would be great for dinner.
Ramen and Some Conversation
It took me about ten minutes from the hotel to make my way back to Shinjuku Station and the ramen stand that I decided to eat dinner at. I’ve walked past this ramen stand every other time I have been in Shinjuku but never stopped to eat at it- tonight was finally the night. It’s located on the west side of the station near the south end of the Keio bus terminal and close to Yodobashi Camera. It was fantastic.
The rain was sprinkling just a bit and the stand wasn’t the most covered spot on the street but it worked out just fine. I took a seat at end of the counter and waited my turn. After the young couple to my left got their food, I ordered a bowl and a beer and sat back as the man behind the counter worked his magic. I had no idea what kind of soup it was but didn’t care- I was hungry. It turned out to be just a simple Shio ramen and it was great.
I inhaled the bowl of noodles in no time. And just as I was finishing, a man sat down on the opposite side of the stand and ordered some sake. (Judging by how he was greeted by the cook, he seemed to be a regular customer).
The man then caught me by surprise when he asked, in English, where I was from. I answered and he introduced himself (although I sadly forgot his name). He explained that he was originally from Hawaii and had been living in Tokyo for the last 30 years. That he originally came as a college student who loved Japan too much to leave. He then became an English teacher so that he could stay. He said he always came to this stand for a drink and that he knew the owner- a Korean man who actually owned I think three stands all together. I will say, I was a bit surprised by how friendly he was.
Our ensuing conversation was nice, chatting about my trip, his life in Tokyo. I decided to have more ramen, so he asked the cook to make me some sort of “secret menu” bowl. As I watched him make it, I couldn’t figure out what was different other than the soup. It was now Miso and a bit spicier, but it still amazing!
I was having a great time eating ramen and chatting! But, it had been a long day, and I was getting tired so I decided to call it a night. (I did want to get up early the next morning). I thanked the cook and paid my bill, then thanked the guy for the great conversation and headed off.
The rain was now falling just a bit harder when I left the ramen stand. Not hard enough to get me totally soaked or anything, at least no more wet than the humidity did. I stopped at the Lawson to buy yogurt, orange juice and a bottle of water, then back to my room.
Once back, I turned on the TV, downloaded the days photos, brushed my teeth and got in bed. It took no time at all to fall asleep I guess beacause the next thing I knew, it was morning.